A version of this story first appeared on the Strategist US.
Even if battling zits is a distant memory filed away with PE classes and algebra tests, acne marks and scars can annoyingly linger long after the pimples are gone. “If someone gets a very large pimple or cyst, the natural healing process of the skin will create a scar,” says dermatologist David Avram of Heights Dermatology and Laser. “The more intense the inflammation, the more likely it will leave a scar.”
True acne scars — as in indentations in the skin like ice-pick scars — can be erased only by professional procedures like microneedling or lasers. Fortunately, what most of us refer to as “scars,” according to Julia Tzu, founder and medical director of Wall Street Dermatology, are actually marks caused by post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (brown spots) or post-inflammatory erythema (red spots) that will fade over several months or years. Also fortunately, there are products that can speed up the process.
We spoke with Tzu, Avram, and seven more dermatologists to get their recommendations for treating, preventing, and camouflaging acne marks.
Best overall product for acne scars
Since UV rays and visible light from the sun can further darken acne marks, all the dermatologists agree that it’s essential to wear sunscreen daily. “Sun protection can make a big difference in whether or not these marks remain permanent,” says Arielle Nagler, a dermatologist at NYU Langone Medical Center. She’ll often recommend that patients wait and see what their scars look like after a year of careful sun protection before opting for an expensive or invasive procedure.
A top pick among dermatologists for facial sunscreens, this EltaMD sun blocker is also recommended for fading acne marks. Dermatologist Natalie Moulton-Levy likes that it “contains lactic acid, an ingredient which causes a reduction in post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation,” while Debra Jaliman, an assistant professor of dermatology at Mount Sinai’s Icahn School of Medicine, says it’s rich in niacinamide, another ingredient that works to fade dark spots. Dr. Dendy Engelman of Medical Dermatology & Cosmetic Surgery, is a fan of this product because, along with lactic acid, “it has zinc oxide to protect from [UVA/UVB] rays and antioxidants to repair damage.”
Another derm-approved sunscreen is this mineral option from La Roche-Posay, recommended by Dr. Michele Farber of Schweiger Dermatology. “It’s one of my favourites because it goes on smoothly and has broad coverage as well as antioxidants as an extra layer of UV protection,” she says. This formula also contains zinc oxide, a key ingredient in helping fade hyperpigmentation.
Best (non-sunscreen) products for acne scars
According to Farber, azelaic acids works by inhibiting the formation of an enzyme called tyrosinase, which in turn stops the mechanism that produces skin-darkening melanin. Moulton-Levy recommends this affordable and effective azelaic acid treatment from the Ordinary.
Like the Murad serum, this treatment combines vitamin C with glycolic acid (and lactic acid, another exfoliant) to fade marks but without the hydroquinone. Nagler recommends vitamin C because it’s “an adjunct in preventing free-radical damage, which helps with pigmentation,” and he says the most effective formulas — like this one — are often more expensive because vitamin C is a difficult ingredient to stabilise.
Farber also likes vitamin C, which she says prevents free radical damage while also helping to reduce pigment changes. She, like the Cut’s beauty director Kathleen Hou and styling and grooming editor Barret Wertz (and every other beauty editor we know), is a fan of C E Ferulic, which offers a high, stable concentration of a notoriously unstable ingredient (hence, the price). It also has other ingredients that make it great, like vitamin E and ferulic acid, which increases its potency.
On the cheaper end, Moulton-Levy says this strong glycolic-acid toner is another nice option for fading acne marks.
Best cleanser for acne scars
In addition to sun protection and targeted treatments, the right cleanser can help minimise acne marks. A favourite of both Moulton-Levy and Chang, this cleanser encourages cell turnover without drying out the skin. Chang says it “contains glycolic acid to wash away dead skin cells on the top layer of the skin, leaving a very clean feel and improving acne blemishing.”
Although this AHA/BHA cleanser helps to brighten and even skin tone generally, Tsu says this formula can help with acne scarring, too. The alpha and beta hydroxy acids chemically exfoliate the skin, which helps to remove dead skin cells, while the liquorice helps to reduce the hyperpigmentation caused by acne scars.
Tsu also likes this cleanser from Glytone, which she says helps to brighten and even out skin discolouration. The superstar ingredient in this formula is glycolic acid, which helps to speed up cell turnover and resurface the skin (thus, helping fade dark marks faster). It’s also oil-free, ideal for anyone with oily, combination, or even normal skin.
Best products for preventing acne scars
When it comes to acne scars — the especially difficult-to-treat indented or raised ones — the best offence is a good defence. If you’re still struggling with active acne and want to avoid future scarring, Avram likes this drugstore staple Neutrogena cleanser because it contains salicylic acid, which “exfoliates the skin, softens the appearance of the acne itself, and has some antibacterial properties.” Chang agrees that the cleanser “can help unclog pores, treat comedones [whiteheads] and blackheads, and prevent active acne.”
If you’re looking to treat both your current pimples and existing scars, these exfoliating pads, recommended by Chang, contain ingredients that help with both. “Salicylic acid increases skin-cell turnover and de-clogs pores to reduce blackheads,” she says. “Glycolic acid chemically exfoliates the skin to even skin tone and decrease blemishing.” Often seen in acne treatments, salicylic acid is a beta hydroxy acid that prevents and treats acne, which ultimately means fewer marks and scars.
And another Strategist-approved product for hyperpigmentation
Two of our experts named this overnight treatment as their top pick, when we consulted them on the best products for hyperpigmentation. “It has a blend of AHAs, BHAs, antioxidants, and peptides, so not only does it help tackle pigmentation through exfoliation, but it will also help with your skin texture and blemishes too,” said beauty influencer Evie, who goes by @sknperfect. Harley Street aesthetician Benisha Williams agreed, saying that even though it’s potent, it’s still suitable for sensitive skin, as “it doesn’t cause as much irritation and dryness as many other acid-type products on the market.” The key ingredient is the alpha-hydroxy acid known as mandelic acid, which Williams explained is “still suitable for those with darker skin tones and sensitive skin, as a large molecular size it’s less irritating than other AHAs.” This product offers both short- and long-term benefits, according to Evie: “It makes my skin look less congested, I seem to get less blemishes when I use it, and if I have them they heal super-quickly. This has brightened the overall look of my skin.” As Williams noted, that’s most likely due to “the addition of lactic and salicylic acid, which encourages exfoliation and helps to lift superficial blemishes.” [Editor’s note: This product is currently out of stock.]
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